Mt Ziria: Take the high road - The Best from Greece

Posted on: 30/Oct/2011 - Mythical mountain birthplace of ancient god Hermes awaits just a couple of hours from Athens

By Haris Argyropoulos

Mt Ziria (also known as Kyllini), which occupies the western part of the Corinth district in the Peloponnese, is less than 150 kilometers west of Athens and offers the nearest alpine landscape to the capital, with fir forests and picturesque lakes. The only reminders that you are in fact in Greece are the details: old stone houses, many chapels and the state of some of the forest roads. The latter comes as no surprise, given that Ziria has the Peloponnese’s second-highest peak, at 2,374 meters.

You will surely need more than just a weekend to acquaint yourself with the area -- which, according to myth, was the birthplace of the cunning god Hermes -- and enjoy most of what it has to offer. The musts in the area are the villages of Evrostini, Goura, Trikala and Kastania, the Feneos plateau and the man-made Doxa reservoir as well as Lake Stymfalia, associated with one of the 12 labors of Hercules.

Evrostini (or Zacholi), the seat of the homonymous municipality, lies on the northern slopes of the mountain and is accessible from Derveni, on the Athens-Patra highway. One of its highlights is a walking route and the small wooden bridges under plane and chestnut trees along the Zacholitikos River, which traverses the village. Another is the Church of Aghios Georgios, on the edge of the village. It is an architectural feat, given its 17 domes and the 40 days approved for its completion by the Ottoman administration in 1811. In an ironic twist, the church hosted two Greek revolutionary war councils against the Turks about a dozen years later.

The route south to Tarsos and Feneos is superb. The road enters a dense black pine and fir forest which hosts rich fauna, including foxes, wildcats, eagle owls, pine martens and francolins. Irises bloom on the roadside, while honeysuckle and dog roses are seen in the clearings.

From Ano Tarsos, almost deserted in winter, follow a dirt road to the Panaghia ton Vrachon Monastery for about a kilometer. After the first turns, you’ll see a unique natural monument: Huge, yellow and gray smooth rocks dominate the landscape, strongly reminiscent of Meteora. Somewhere between them lies the deserted monastery with fine mountain views.

Back in the village, follow the paved road to Feneos and then turn right to the Doxa reservoir and the Monastery of Aghios Georgios. This is one of the most beautiful areas of the district, full of pine, fir and oak trees around the blue man-made lake. In a commanding location above the lake is the stunning 17th-century Monastery of Aghios Georgios, worth visiting for its defensive architecture and excellent iconography.

A little further south is ancient Feneos, with the ruins of an acropolis and a temple dedicated to the god of medicine, Asclepius. West of there is Goura, a beautiful village, full of stone-built, two-story houses and mansions dating as far back as the early 19th century.

An eastern approach to the mountain starts from the seaside town of Xylokastro and ascends via Pellini, a village with stone-built houses and large, flower-filled courtyards. About 22 kilometers to the southwest is Trikala -- Upper (Ano), Middle (Mesea) and Lower (Kato) -- an increasingly popular tourist destination tucked into the lush forest which offers several lovely guesthouses -- mostly open only during weekends in the fall. The area is excellent for country walks.
The road leading in an easterly and then southerly direction from Trikala eventually brings you to the Stymfalia area and the head village of Kalliani.

The Monastery of Aghia Paraskevi is a 20-minute walk, tucked into a gorge, and 10 minutes away is the village of Stymfalia, full of fountains. Further along the northern side of the lake are a sequence of picturesque and lush villages well worth visiting: Kionia, Karteri, Lafka and Kastania.

How to get there

A car or motorcycle is indispensable. From Athens, it takes about 90 minutes to Xylokastro, Lykoporia or Derveni via the Athens-Patra highway, past the Corinth Canal, and from there it depends on the destination. Goura is 162 km from Athens. The roads are generally good and there are great routes for 4x4 vehicles on unpaved forest roads, which are only accessible by regular cars in dry weather. Useful phone numbers: Evrostini municipality: 27430.30100; police: 27470.51201; Goura health center: 27470.51333.

Where to stay

Semeli, in Goura: comfortable and clean, excellent service and breakfasts with local fresh produce and homemade jams (tel 27470.51319); Evrostini: superb guesthouse of just five rooms (all with fireplace), hospitable hosts, very good breakfast (tel 27430.32122); Kallisto, in Goura: small, picturesque and hospitable guesthouse, fireplace in the lounge (tel 27470.51080); Pigi Tarlampa, in Trikala: excellently styled upmarket hotel (tel 24430.91267); and Mysaion, also in Trikala: traditional guesthouse (tel 27430.91141).

Where to eat

Taverna Korais, in Evrostini: excellent fasolada (bean soup), famous grill -- people come from afar; Koutouki Staikou, in ancient Feneos: famous taverna on the Doxa reservoir -- good ambience and superb view of the lake, don’t miss the wild boar and local sausage; Yiannis Kouloukos, in Mesino: traditional taverna with fine dishes, excellent service, the bread and grilled meats are superb; Klimataria, in Goura: small taverna, tasty fare and low prices, always open; Gogolas, in Karya: very good grill, excellent table wine.

What to see

The historic Monastery of Aghios Vlasios, built around 1400 -- from the flower-filled courtyard you have fine views of the Sythas River valley and the villages of the Trikala area; the small folk history museums in Feneos and Louka; the Trikrina spring near the Xenia hotel in Kastania, where nymphs bathed young Hermes, according to mythology; on neighboring Mt Helmos, the village of Zarouchla and Lake Tsivlou, the result of a landslide; the 16th-century Tower of Kordis in Pyrgos, northeast of Evrostina, with a folk history museum.

Activities & walks

Take a walk or bring a bicycle to explore one of the most idyllic autumn spots alongside the Doxa reservoir, or longer routes in the area; hike on Mavro Oros (Black Mountain) at 1,800 meters. Alternative activities firm Greek Adventure (tel 6944.667.683) manages a track for jeeps at the foot of Goura and offers guided treks, paintball and cycling around the lake. Lake Stymfalia is a birdwatcher’s haven in the autumn. Test your winter sports skills at the small skiing center 10 kilometers from Upper Trikala (tel 22430.22229).

http://www.ekathimerini.com

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